The architecture alone and streets lined with gold and
designer stores is enough to send any woman into a tailspin of spending and
photography, but visiting Florence as a family takes quite another spin. I knew
that taking the children, ages 6 & 9, might prove to be difficult as what
child would want to walk aimlessly around looking at building after building,
fresco after fresco, and statue after statue? Heck, all I heard from my
children all day was, "Can we go back to the room? Can we have
gelato" and my favorite, "These statues all need underwear mom!"
From the eyes of a child, this is probably the most boring place in the world,
unless of course your child absolutely loves art and all things about art and
has a wealth of knowledge regarding painters, sculptors and the ilk. But for my
two, no, they had none of that going for them. They were bored but they were
troopers and tried to enjoy themselves.
We drove to Florence on a rainy Saturday morning. I should
have known that was just the beginning of the rain because all weekend long,
the rain persisted. Despite it though, Florence still turned out to be a great
city, full of life, happiness and atmosphere. We rented a little one bedroom
flat which I highly recommend. Our weekend landlord, Luca, had a fabulous place
minutes away from the Duomo and Baptistery and as they say in the real estate
business, location is everything. This flat was literally in the center of
town. http://www.housetrip.com/en/rentals/5787
. The only downside was the 8-10 minute walk complete with luggage in tow that
we lugged through the town from the train station, and in the rain. We met up
with Luca's girlfriend and thankfully, she spoke very good English. Once we
exchanged keys, the family set out to explore our surroundings. We found the
Hard Rock Cafe right at our corner. Next to that and all around us was a
shopping extravaganza, complete with stores like Valentino's, Miu Miu, Gucci,
Coco Chanel, and Lush. Yes it was a shopper's heaven, but since my 9yr old
tells me I shop too much, I mean really what girl doesn't like to shop, I did
my best not to shop. And since most Italians are not as broad shouldered and as
thick in the middle as I, shopping wasn't much of a concern. More importantly,
as we rounded the other corner, the Baptistery was right there and the Duomo,
right behind it. We were center stage for the main attraction.
The baptistery, named for John the Baptist was an octagon
structure with bronze inlaid doors, also known as the Gate of Paradise, that
depicted ten stories from the bible. In the Middle Ages, it was believed to be
a Roman pagan temple dedicated to Mars. The first panel on the door represents
the creation of Adam and Eve and their expulsion from Eden. The second panel is
the story of Cain and Abel. The remaining panels are in this order, from left
to right, Noah & the Ark, Abraham, Isaac and sons Esau and Jacob, the
stories of Joseph, Moses, Joshua, David and lastly, Solomon and the Queen of
Sheba.On the other side of the Baptistery, another set of doors sits and
depicts scenes from the new Testament. My daughter and i got a sneak peak
inside and saw the phenomenal mosaic ceiling, the tomb of the anitpope (who
knew?) and the mosaic scene of Hell in the Last Judgment, a strange looking
picture of a devilish looking figure which I did not even think I would see in
a place of worship. Here's some more information on the Baptistery which I
found rather informative. http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/florence-baptistery.
We also visited the Duomo, which is a must! The outside
architecture alone takes your breath away, and the inside is even more
magnificent. As we approached the pulpit area I stopped dead in my tracks as my
gaze led upwards towards the ceiling. The fresco on the ceiling was painted in
such a way that is appeared as if the subjects were popping out of the picture.
Truly an amazing feat since it was all painted in one dimension. My husband
visited the tombs and told me there wasn't much to them, so at least I know I
didn't miss much. You can climb to the top of the Duomo and, from what my husband
described, have an excellent view of the city and the surrounding areas. I will
warn you, there are about 436 steps to the top and not every step is carved
equally. Our next stop included the Piazza della Signoria. It's located near
the Palazzo Vechio and is a piazza full of statues each with their own story.
In this piazza was where the original David, by Michaelangelo, was located, but
it has since been moved to the Galleria Academia. However, you can see the
David by Donatello. It is still a wonderful piece. My favorite statue though
was definitely the one of Perseus holding Medusa's head while standing atop her
dead body. Much detail went in to the making of that statue.
In the same area, you can visit the Palazzo Vecchio and view
the art and several pieces of the time when the family ruled. There is also a
secret passages tour which was recommended to me by a friend. Unfortunately on
the day we tried to tour the palace, they did not have that tour available.
Dinner that night was the Hard Rock Cafe where I enjoyed a good old American
salad and hamburger. After living in italy for awhile, you need a taste of
home. The waitress even gave us free refills on our drinks which is totally
unheard of in Italy. I was so happy to be eating in an American restaurant.
After dinner we walked around the corner and ended up at a local open air
market that was open for the weekend. They had assorted cheeses, meats, sauces
and pastas. My husband's favorite was the meat being sliced off a roasted pig
leg. I enjoyed the chestnuts roasting over an open fire (now just don't go
breaking out into song. I know, the temptation is hard!)
The next day we spent exploring the city and all the culture
it had to offer us. We visited the science museum where the kids went on a scavenger
hunt to locate Galileo's finger, thumb and tooth! (They did find it and were
very pleased with themselves, even though they rest of the time they were bored
with mom's show and tell education time.) We visited the Ponte Vecchio, the
covered bridge in the city. Once you crossed the bridge, you came upon what I
call "The street lined with gold." Literally, all along the street on
both sides, there was goldsmith after goldsmith. At least here my oldest
permitted me to browse the earrings, charms, and bracelets. We continued on our
way to the Palazzo Pitti, not very exciting but it was a large palace. And
finally we visited the Galleria Academia where Michaelangelo's David stood,
front and center, in all it's masculine beauty. The detail and form used to
create this masterpiece is mesmerizing, and i think, even my husband began to
feel a little taken aback by David's in your face genitalia, but it's art, so
it's all good.
Florence is a beautiful city, steep in culture, religion and
fashion. My one qualm with the place is the cost of everything if you are not
an EU citizen. Each large touristy city has a pass that allows you to visit all
the museums for one set price. For a family of four, it would have 200 euros
and frankly, when you cost out the individual places you want to see, you pay
much less. Also, if you want to grab a bite to eat, eat where they locals go,
you will find the best food there rather than what a book tells you is the best
gelato in the whole world. (Sadly, it was not)
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